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Writer's pictureFuSSO 2022

When is the Best Time to Apply a Face Mask?

Updated: Nov 24


Ever wondered if there’s a perfect time to apply your face mask?

You’re not alone! Timing can actually make a big difference in how effective your mask is. Let’s dive into how you can get the most out of your skincare routine by choosing the right time to apply your masks.


Quick Quiz

  1. Do you prefer to apply your face mask in the morning or before bed?

    1. Morning

    2. Before Bed

    3. Both, depending on the mask

  2. What’s your primary skincare concern?

    1. Hydration

    2. Exfoliation

    3. Brightening

    4. Pore Management

  3. Have you noticed a difference in how your skin responds to masks based on the time of day?

    1. Yes, definitely

    2. No, not really

    3. I’m not sure


By answering these questions, you’ll get a clearer picture of how to optimize your mask routine. Let’s explore the benefits of applying face masks at different times of the day and find out how to tailor your skincare routine for maximum results...


01.

Pros for Applying at Nighttime: 

  • Skin regeneration peaks: Before bed is an especially ideal time for applying skin products intended for skin regeneration, which typically functions by removing dead skin cells, resulting in exfoliation and skin renewal. Research has found that the cell processes the body undergoes every day are regulated by the circadian cycle, meaning that cell activities follow a 24-hour rhythm and peak at different times of the day. For instance, the DNA repair process that fixes the damages caused by exposure to UV rays as well as the release of growth hormones peaks at night, around 10:30 pm to 2:30 am (Lyons et al.). These hormones accelerate the proliferation of skin cells as well as repair damaged cells.


    During this time the production of collagen, a protein essential for skin repair and elasticity, accelerates. Therefore, the body’s natural cell regeneration process can serve as an amplifier to the skin products’ functions of improving skin texture, revitalizing the skin, and removing dirt and dead skin cells accumulated during the daytime.

  • Maximize absorption: In addition, the circadian rhythm exerts effects on skin functions such as transepidermal water loss, keratinocyte proliferation, blood flow, and temperature. Most prominently, it affects skin permeability, increasing absorption of topical treatment at night as compared to the day (Lyons et al.). This means the skincare product you use is more likely to penetrate deeper into the skin and work more effectively. However, since the skin loses moisture more rapidly at night, it needs extra hydration and nutrients. Using masks with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin during this time can help replenish the skin with moisture and achieve the effect of deep nourishment.


  • Reduce skin irritation: Exfoliating masks along with whitening and brightening masks are not suitable for the day because they typically contain ingredients such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid, which are sensitive to UV light. These ingredients have exfoliating and brightening effects, but they also increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. According to a research study published in the Journal of Dermatological Science specifically examining the treatment with glycolic acid, glycolic acid significantly increases erythema, DNA damage, and sunburn cell formation. Therefore, applying masks containing these ingredients during the day may lead to redness, irritation, and inflammation.


Applicable mask types:

  1. Repairing masks: nourishing masks with repairing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, vitamin c, etc. These ingredients typically Promote collagen production, provide hydration, and strengthen the skin barrier.

  2. Exfoliating and deep cleansing masks: clay masks and charcoal black masks, or products containing glycolic acid or lactic acid. Clay masks and charcoal black mask contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)---glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid. Glycolic acid works by removing dead cells to treat acne, aging skin, dark skin patches, and acne scars. However, glycolic acid is strong and irritating to the skin. although acting similarly as an exfoliant, it is suitable for sensitive skin as it produces a gentler effect and offers moisturization (Smith).


02.

Pros for Applying in the Morning:

  • Hydration and moisturization:  During the night, the skin loses a certain amount of water through natural physiological processes. Studies have shown that trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) is more significant at night, which means that in the morning when you wake up, your skin may be in a dehydrated state. Using a hydrating mask at this time can quickly replenish the lost water for the skin and restore the skin's hydration. This is especially true for masks containing highly effective moisturizing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides, which penetrate deep into the skin's stratum corneum, quickly locking in moisture and providing long-lasting moisturizing effects for the skin.


    This not only makes the skin appear smoother and more elastic in the morning but also prepares it for the outside environment throughout the day. In addition, moisturizing masks are usually made with gentle ingredients and do not contain strong exfoliating or whitening ingredients, so they are safer to use at any time during the day without increasing the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

  • Strengthen skin protection: When the day starts, using masks that have the function of reducing poles and tightening skin can construct a robust barrier for the skin. Masks of this type often contain ingredients like salicylic acid, which is not only effective in purifying the skin and minimizing the formation of pimples but also temporarily shrinks pores, making the skin look tighter and smoother. For example, studies confirmed that salicylic acid, typically used in acne and clarifying masks (improve skin texture and minimize pores) can decrease the erythemal response of the skin and exhibit sunscreen effects (Kornhauser et al.).  This is to say, using a mask with salicylic acid in the morning not only gives your skin a refreshing feel but also helps it defend against environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution. By strengthening the skin's barrier, these masks offer better protection throughout the day, making your skin more resilient and comfortable when facing pollutants, UV rays, and other irritants.

  • Preparation for makeup:Another key benefit of applying masks in the morning is that they serve as an ideal base for makeup. Even after a good night's rest, when your skin has had time to repair and regenerate, it still needs extra nourishment and hydration to be ready for the next steps in your makeup routine. 


    By creating a smooth, moist base, morning masks can be a great preparation for makeup application. Gervaise Gerstner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist for over 17 years, advised that applying masks in the morning “is great to do pre-makeup to give your skin the base hydration it needs. It's just like using a primer to give hydration and prep skin.

Applicable mask types:

  1. Moisturizing masks: such as those containing hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, and fatty oils. For instance, hyaluronic acid works by binding water to collagen to preserve moisture in the skin, a study, found that within period of 2-8 weeks, hyaluronic acid demonstrated a significant effect of improving skin elasticity and reducing skin roughness (Jegasothy).

  2. Pore-constricting masks: such as those containing salicylic acid and astringent ingredients. Salicylic acid is effective in unclogging pores and clearing blackheads and whiteheads. Although it may cause dryness and redness from use for some, for most people, it is not overly irritating to the skin.

  3. Brightening masks: products containing niacinamide and vitamin C.


03.

Things to Consider

Determining the best timing for applying a mask thus requires much consideration ranging from the ingredients of the products, the purposes of applying, the functions of the products, and the individual's skin condition. The following points might help you with determining when to best apply masks:


Apprehend the ingredients

Depending on the ingredients of the mask, choose the right time to use it. For example, masks containing harsh ingredients are suitable for use at night, while moisturizing masks are suitable for use in the morning.


Adjust to the skincare routine

Incorporate the timing of applying the mask into the daily skincare routine, such as using a regeneration mask after cleaning and exfoliating, and using a hydration mask before makeup.


Accustom to individual needs

Understanding one’s own skincare needs, such as whether it is intended to repair, moisturize, or enhance skin protection, and choosing accordingly.


By understanding the nuances of the timing and effects of applying different masks, we can better adjust our skincare habits so as to ensure that our skin can receive the most effective treatment at different times of the day. Keeping good skincare habits not only facilitates skin health but also keeps the skin alive and glamorous every single day. 



References:

4. Lyons, Alexis B et al. “Circadian Rhythm and the Skin: A Review of the Literature.” The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology vol. 12,9 (2019): 42-45.

5. Kornhauser, Andrija et al. “The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin.” Journal of dermatological science vol. 55,1 (2009): 10-7. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2009.03.011

6. Kumar, Vivek et al. “Epidermal stem cells ride the circadian wave.” Genome biology vol. 14,11 140. 29 Nov. 2013, doi:10.1186/gb4142

7. Smith WP. Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996 Sep;35(3 Pt 1):388-91. doi: 10.1016/s0190-9622(96)90602-7. PMID: 8784274.

8. Jegasothy, S Manjula et al. “Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans.” The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology vol. 7,3 (2014): 27-9.

9. Munteanu, C., et al. "The Relationship between Circadian Rhythm and Cancer Disease." International Journal of Molecular Sciences, vol. 25, no. 11, 2024, p. 5846, https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms25115846.

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